Jardins de Métis, with a bonus visit to Sainte-Luce-sur-Mer

 

One of our favourite places in the Bas-Saint-Laurent and Gaspésie is Elsie Reford’s Jardins de Métis. The gardens occupy a remarkable site at Grand-Métis, close to where the Mitis River meets the St. Lawrence.

 

The name itself has an interesting history. One proposed explanation traces Métis, or Mitis, to the Mi’kmaq word Mitioui, meaning “meeting place,” an apt description for the area around the mouth of the Mitis River, which was historically a place of meeting and trade. Other theories have also been proposed, including a derivation from Mitisk, said to mean “birch tree.” The precise origin, therefore, is not entirely settled.

 

In this geographical context, the name Métis should not be confused with the Métis, the distinct Indigenous people of Canada. Despite the identical spelling in French, the place-name Métis/Mitis has a different proposed origin. In other words, the name of this part of Quebec is not a reference to the Métis people or to the French idea of métissage, or mixed ancestry.

 

Elsie Reford began transforming what had been a fishing property into her gardens in 1926 and continued developing them for some three decades. I have written before about the gardens and the fascinating story of their creation, so rather than repeat that history here, I’ll refer readers to those earlier posts and links.

 

This, however, was the first time we had been able to visit the gardens so late in the season, in September. I also posted a selection of digital photographs from this late-season visit on the digital blog.

 

Despite the lateness of the season, there were still plenty of flowers in bloom and interesting things to see, with the added advantage of being free of the summer crowds. There is something particularly appealing about seeing the gardens at this time of year. The exuberance of midsummer has begun to give way to autumn, but the gardens are far from finished. Flowers remain, foliage is beginning to change, and the quieter atmosphere makes it easier to slow down and simply look.

 

These photographs were made with the ever-trusty Hasselblad 500 C/M, using Ilford FP4 Plus exposed at its box speed of ISO 125. The film was developed in Rodinal, a developer whose origins date to 1891.


Of all the shots, this one is my favourite...


...which is a crop of this photo:



The sunflowers (though on the digital blog are some very colourful close-up of the bees hard a work).





Making the most of depth-of-field to bring focus to the flowers and bokeh to the background.






Capturing a dewdrop falling.



The evergreen paths leading to-and-from the look-out.




The view of the pond from under the gazebo.



The bonsai on an old millstone.



And finally, as always, the old pick-up.



And, as a bonus, there are a few photographs from Sainte-Luce-sur-Mer.

 

Sainte-Luce-sur-Mer lies at the opposite end of the regional municipality of La Mitis from Métis-sur-Mer, on its southeastern edge and just 10 minutes east of Rimouski. With a beach stretching for 2.5 kilometres along the St. Lawrence, it is a lively and vibrant place during the summer months, becoming noticeably quieter once the season ends.

 




Wood carvings are a distinctive feature of the waterfront, with new works added each year.

 


Unlike Baie-des-Sables, where the wharf is closed because of its deteriorating condition, the wharf at Sainte-Luce-sur-Mer has undergone an extensive rebuild and renewal. Inspired by schooners and the maritime traditions that have shaped this coastline, the redesigned wharf celebrates Sainte-Luce's close relationship with the St. Lawrence River. Its illuminated arches evoke the sails of ships from days gone by, while platforms and observation areas provide exceptional views across the river.








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